Winter 2017 Newsletter
(December 2017)
Greetings from Esalen Institute where I have been regenerating and teaching after nearly a month in China.
Arriving in Shanghai, my 2-week residency began with the Cross-Cultural Journeys’ group in Hangzhou and Suzhou – the two most scenic and culturally rich cities in China. In Hangzhou, we stayed in the Xin Xin Hotel including the Chinese section of the “Autumn Water Mountain Villa”, which was once our Huang family home after the Sino-Japanese War.
The once tranquil, lakeside villa is no more as it was in the mid-1940’s when there were no buses, cars or overwhelming tourists—mostly Chinese who came from all over the country to fulfill their “being there and done that” “bucket wish” list. All Chinese know this saying: “Up there, we have heaven; down on earth, we have Suzhou and Hangzhou!” Expressed again and again by major poets throughout history, these cities proved to be the favorites of Manchu Qing Dynasty Emperors, Kangxi and Qianlong.
One morning as our group finished our early morning Tai Ji practice by the lakeshore, we turned around to discover a huge crowd of Chinese gawking at these foreign friends doing the “Chinese thing”, cheering and snapping photos of us.
In many ways, the cities still live up to their fame, once we learned to weed through the mob scenes and ignore the ever-present Big Mac, KFC, and Starbucks coffee shops! Chinese go wild now not only accepting, but embracing these “consumer-driven cultural pollutions” from the West.
In addition to all the must-see places on our itinerary, our highlights included:
- An afternoon of exchange with students/faculty of The Philosophy Department at the Zhejiang University.
- Visiting the National Arts Academy, to see the Pritzker Price winning architect 王澍Wang Su’s buildings. Find his Pritzker Price Award’s acceptance speech here: http://www.pritzkerprize.com/2012/ceremony
- A visit to the artist 袁進華Yuan Jinhua’s studio to watch him work, and enjoy an impressive “Tai Ji/Gongfu” demonstration by his martial artist young friend 喬迪Jody.
- And, a delightful surprise encounter with a group of students on the campus lawn who played and sang music of their choice with us, the “foreign guests”—John Denver’s “Country Road, Take me Home” and The Beatles “Hey Jude”!
In Suzhou, our hotel was a beautifully renovated classic old mansion situated in the midst of small water canals, full of activity from shops and food stalls. We mingled shoulder to shoulder with everyday Chinese and, yes again, mobs of tourists. We had our own garden courtyard for daily Tai Ji followed by delicious Chinese breakfast delicacies served by a most attentive staff dressed in late Manchu outfit complete with a hat attached with a braided long que.
The highlight in Suzhou was, obviously, the famous stunningly beautiful gardens, too many of them!
And the visit to I.M. Pei designed Suzhou Contemporary Art Museum. And to the Silk Museum and gift shops. (Yes, we did indulge in shopping there.) Also, the afternoon at the Kunqu Opera Academy to enjoy a performance of selected scenes from the classic operas.
On the last day, we visited the Cold Mountain Temple 寒山寺just outside of Suzhou. Most of you have heard me reciting the famous Tang Dynasty poem by 張繼Zhang Ji, “Mooring At Night by the Maple Bridge” 楓橋夜泊of this line, “The ringing of the Midnight Bell from Cold Mountain Temple reaches the Wanderer’s boat…”, 夜半鐘聲到客船and have seen the calligraphy of this poem on the wall in our meditation room at the River House.
Two weeks went by much too swiftly. I said goodbye to the CCJ group while some of them continued on with the extended tour to Beijing, Xian and Shanghai. Joined by Gitta Legler from New Zealand and Mr. Yi from Wu Yi Mountain in Suzhou, we travel to Nanjing on the train the next day, and met with Rex Mayers. Those were bonus days between my teaching for the CCJ group and my presentation at the International Tian-tai-shan Cultural Conference on the Tang Dynasty’s Chan/Zen poets Hanshan and Shih-te. With barely 3 days, I enjoyed my nostalgic return to my childhood (ten/eleven years old) in Nanjing during the years of 1947-48, the last days of the Nationalist government in that capital city before our exile to Taiwan when the Communist Party moved the capital to Beijing in 1949 to declare the Rise of The People’s Republic of China. Mr.Yi helped us to find a wonderful hotel 秦淮人家, right in the old town by the 秦淮河Qin Huai River where the legendary Courtesan Houses were. We were especially impressed by the thoughtful, and artistically detailed renovations, retaining the historic beauty of the old city, still surrounded by all four gateways of the city walls.
We climbed the steep steps to the Sun Yet-sun (the father of Republic of China)’s mausoleum and the surrounding historic relics of the Ming Tombs, and The Madame Chiang’s Palatial Mansion and the Presidential Museum where I spotted the large photo of the ceremony of the Presidential inauguration of Chiang Kai-shek in 1948, with my father, the Chief of Police of the capital city, prominently uniformed, decked with medals, on duty for the security of that day. I remember on that same day our family also posed for an official photo, with father in the same get-up, now in our family scrapbook. It was quite moving.
Cutting the nostalgic trip short, Gitta, Rex and I went back to Hangzhou to be met by the reception committee, taking us to Tiantai Mountain for the Conference themed, 和合文化—“Cultural Harmony of the World. Two hundred scholars of Chan/Zen were gathered from all Asian countries, including Japan, Korea, and Thailand, with only the 3 of us from the West—I, the Chinese/American citizen director of Lan Ting Institute, with Gitta and Rex, two Lan Ting Scholars. We were royally welcomed as VIPs seated in front of the assemblage, with simultaneous translation ear phones for Gitta and Rex; reserved banquet seats; and front row in the group photo. It was quite an adventure for us indeed. Most honored and memorable. More to report later after I have had time to absorb and assimilate all the experiences there.
After the Conference, we took the train to Fuzhou to see our ailing friend Zhongsen. I was prepared, but still very sad to see, our beloved artist/teacher/friend in such a state. He seemed to understand everything we said to him, with clear emotional responses with smiles and tears, and brightened eyes and occasional spastic hand grips. I wish to believe he had received all our love and greetings and healing CHI. The most comforting thing is to see him surrounded by loving family, with wife Rose, and daughter-in-law’s meticulous feminine care, and having his bright and lively 5-year old granddaughter, dancing and singing by his bed. He also has a newly-born grandson to carry the Chen family name.
From Fuzhou, we went on to Wu Yi Mountain to visit Abbess Han at the Zhi Zhi An. the Tao Guan 道觀is officially closed in resistance to local government’s interference trying to coerce her into making it more tourist friendly and commercial. Now, she closed the place to the public, claiming retreat and renovationfor a while. She was happy to receive some financial support from me and Lan Ting; Gitta, Rex and Mr. Yi also joined me with our donations to the Temple.
Back in Shanghai, we were invited by my theater friends to visit the Shanghai Academy rehearsal of the students working on a Broadway Musical, “Big Fish”. Another class is working on mounting CHICAGO, the musical. They are very keen on these musicals, singing in English with Chinese dialogues. Very interesting to observe young, versatile and talented actor-singer-dancers, passionately pursuing their theater careers. I was delighted to see a big poster of the 1983 Broadway show, BABY, on the rehearsal hall wall, since I was very much involved in the development and production, and the opening of that show then. The Academy is now asking me to assist them to secure the rights to produce the show through my association with the composer David Shire and his lyricist/director partner Richard Maltby, Jr. Who knows? It may just happen that I might entertain another brief fling with the musical theater back in Shanghai, my birth city in China with an American Musical!
Coming back via San Francisco for a couple days before my residency at Esalen. I was invited by my critic friend Janos Gerebento the SF Opera production of Turandot with David Hockney’s set design, still good and vividly creative, avoiding the cliché of dragons, lanterns and Chinatown look.
The leading voices were excellent, and Ping Pang Pong Trio, delightful. The happy ending finale sealed with a kiss still solicits a few giggles of contrivance. I believe one of Monserrat Caballe’s legendary surprise endings of “the daughter of Turan” committing suicide seems more dramatically real.
Esalen is most restorative with the Hot Springs, fresh ocean air, and the beauty of nature all around. I begin teaching my seminars on “Essential Qi Gong” and “Creative Tai Ji” with pre-breakfast Tai Ji with the community on the Tai Ji Deck to greet the sunrise.
Esalen is collecting stories of her legacy and they filmed an interview with me speaking of my early experiences. For the Wednesday community open forum, I gave a talk to tell more stories of the good old days, and of the pioneering elders/mentors whom I have known and collaborated with, such as Alan Watts, Joseph Campbell and Huston Smith. The day after, there was a little ceremony on the Tai Ji Deck, with the presence Esalen’s President Gordon Wheeler, board member Nancy Lunney, Mac Murphy (son of co-founder Michael) who calls me his Chinese uncle. Mac just returned from his recent study in China; and many longtime students/friends in the past will all be on hand. It was a special day.
From here, I will finally return home to be with Suzanne in Illinois, until we fly out to Seattle to be with both daughters and family for Xmas—especially eager to see our grandchildren, Avery and Sylvia. By the way, our Grandpa-granddaughter collaboration of the new book, “Tai Ji Dancing for Kids” is creating much excitement and enthusiastically sought after by children and their elders, and in grade schools. It looks to be a real HIT! The companion book by my daughter Lark and me, “Chinese Symbols for Baby Brains” is also getting wonderful reviews—Here’s one
My publisher, Singing Dragon, is delighted so are we, the co-authors.
Before long, another Chinese New Year will be upon us. I am looking forward to returning to Evergreen College again in Olympia around that time, and soon after to welcome many of you, returning to River House for our Winter Seminar.
Together with our faithful Swiss Team, to announce our 2018 Spring seminar in Winterthur, Barbara Willi again designed the flyer with my thoughts and calligraphic art motifs of this coming Lunar New Year. Here it is to inspire you—
Happy Holidays,
Chungliang